The Diary of a Gypsy Locavore

Truffle Hunting continued

Fri, 6 Aug 2010 16:52:20 -0700

Luigi is a manly man dressed in fatigues and green sweater, with the same deep dark eyes as Simone. Luigi however speaks no english and will be taking us truffle hunting. He says a string of italian words to his son, that I cannot translate, maybe he’s asking if we “wanna take a ride”(he is sicilian), turns out he is worried about our shoes. He offers us each wellies and I start to feel a little more at ease. I ask about their garden and olive trees and find that he is also a gardener, and I find the italian words i need to carry on a decent conversation.
It is time to go into the trees, we load up in the pick up, a mysterious dog caged in the truck bed and take off down the lane. After we have unloaded at the hunting spot Bianca is turned loose, and I try to pet her, she will have nothing to do with me. They explain that she is young and quite skittish, I can wait, she’ll come around. Shortly after we begin walking she begins sniffing and pointing, she has found the first truffle of the day. It is so beautiful to watch her work, to see this amazing relationship between man and man’s best friend. We stay back a few feet to keep from distracting her as Simone answers our questions about truffles, and his Dad, about Bianca and how the dogs are trained. John’s eyes light up as she finds another, memories of his father flood his mind. Truffle hunting is much like morel mushroom hunting, I knew he would enjoy this day.
Bianca finally makes it around to licking John’s hand, but she barks and barks at me, I think she saw me as a playmate instead of a human. Luigi is frustrated because she is so nervous and flitty, his terrior extraordinaire has just given birth to seven puppies six days before. She is his favorite to truffle hunt with, she is accustomed to being around people and is much more serious about finding the truffles. Bianca eventually finds a third one before rolling over and rubbing her back in the tall grass.
We head back to the family farm, walking the dirt road, talking with Luigi, the best we could. He shows us a photo of a large white truffle he found this past fall valued at $1000, we ask about todays cache, it might bring $75 since it is a black spring truffle. They are closer to the surface and much less elusive as the white one’s that are prized for their rarity, and are buried 10-12 inches below ground, a true Italian delicacy. This experience a true delicacy. To meet a family from another culture, see their home, spend the day, communicate, make a connection.
We are beaming when we arrived back in the hilltown of Certaldo, where we will finally meet the matriarch of this wonderful family, Giuseppina Pizzolato in her new shop and cooking school in the old town. We are immediately welcomed by her and her youngest son Luca. They ask about our morning and see our prize the three truffles which are our sto keep, but decide they would know better what to do with them. Truth is we tasted a truffled pecorino in Cortona and hated it. eeks. Part of the truffle hunting experience is an antipasto style lunch featuring truffles.
I’ve always heard they are amazing with eggs, of which I see a basketful, when Giuseppina asks if we like sausage. I’m thinking we are gonna need it! She pulls a couple beautiful fat links from the case and slices them down the middle. Interesting. Next she spread the pork over slices of tuscan bread, which I assume will go under the broiler. NOPE, the then shaves a beautiful white truffle over and hands me the slice. It is very fine meat , it is ok to eat raw, she says. Here is where the true adventure begins! I take a bite, it tastes amazing, not at all what i had expected or rather dreaded, so delicate and fresh, a flavor explosion in my mouth. Next came anchovy butter and truffles on bread, the scrambled eggs. The eggs were that telltale golden orange of fresh farm eggs, she heated olive oil in the pan and drizzled the tiniest drop of eggs to check the temperature of the oil, when it began to sizzle she poured the scrambled eggs into the glistening oil, in no time we were eating the fluffiest, brightest scrambled eggs ever with that amazing truffle shaved over the top. Our forks clashed, bread was sliced, wine was poured Luca and Simone began to slice thin layers of proscuitto from a whole and we talked and savored ,drank, tasted pecorino and favas and laughed for a good long while.
This was well outside our comfort zone, our safety box, and it will most likely go down as the highlight of 2010 for me. This family was so giving, so kind and gentle, willing to share a day with us that opened our eyes to the possibilities of la dolce vita.

Truffle Hunting

Sat, 31 Jul 2010 10:29:42 -0700

Even though John and I love to travel, we are not very adventurous. I set out to push us beyond our comfort level on this past trip to Italy. I also don’t always think things through, which brings us to one of the most notorious excursions we’ve experienced in hindsight.
Truffle hunting in Tuscany. The morning after we arrived in Florence, we hopped a train to the small town of Certaldo, where we were to meet our hosts at 9 am. No sooner did we get off the train before a very dark haired, young strapping man with multiple piercings and deep dark eyes approached us. Are you” Leslie?” he said in a heavy italian accent, “I am Simone”, whom I had pictured as a woman for some reason or another. He said he would take us to meet his father Luigi to start the hunt. So here we are getting in a car with a stranger, in a town, in a foreign country where no one knows us or where we are for that matter, heading toward the countryside.The car winds and winds through picturesque vistas of hill towns and grape vineyards, small farms and large estates while I know John is thinking what in the world are we doing here, they could be father rapers for all we know! (one of his more colorful phrases) The conversation is friendly and interesting between his broken english and my fractured italian as we turn up a dirt road, between a number of private homes, with barking dogs and stares.
to be continued...

Lemon Olive Oil Cake

Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:36:01 -0700

Torte di Olio di Oliva e Lemoni
Olive oil cake with lemon glaze

2 cups plus 3 Tablespoons {300 grams} organic all-purpose flour
1 ¼ cup {200 grams} organic sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
2 lemons, zested and then juiced

1 cup organic milk
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
3 farm eggs

reserved lemon juice
½ cup plus 1 Tablespoon {100 grams}organic sugar
butter for pan

1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup bakers sugar
1 /2 vanilla bean halved lengthwise

Preheat oven to 350º
Butter a 9 in spring form and place a 9 in circle of parchment paper in the bottom of pan, and butter as well.
Combine dry ingredients, add milk, and olive oil, then add eggs one at a time mixing until well incorporated and smooth.
Pour into prepared pan and give it a couple spinning taps on the counter to eliminate air bubbles.
Bake at 350º for 45 minutes or until toothpick inserted comes out clean.
Whisk together reserved lemon juice, and sugar. Poke holes all over cake and slowly dribble lemon syrup over cake.

Scrape vanilla bean inside and add to cold whipping cream. In a cold bowl, whip cream until almost stiff. Add sugar and beat until cream holds peaks.

Let cool and serve with fresh berries and vanilla whipped cream.

Godere- to enjoy

Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:37:55 -0700

After our “light lunch” we began making pasta, from scratch. I learned I had not been working the dough nearly long enough, and that letting it rest made all the difference in rolling it out. Shirley is not a fan of pasta machines, she prefers to hand roll the pasta. Her technique produced wide sheets of thin and flexible pasta, much easier to work with that what I have experienced with my pasta machine.
John proved to be much more at ease with pasta making than myself, he has quite the finesse with this staple of Italian cuisine. He made swiss chard and ricotta ravioli worthy of any artisan pasta shop. I made a variation of ravioli with chard and pancetta. For his we made a quick tomato sauce for mine a simple olive oil and fava bean sauce.
Artichokes snapped to the bright green flesh, and halved braise in Vin Santo along side a pan of tuscan white beans with garlic and liberal doses of olive oil and sage leaves. Greens are washed and washed and washed. Potatoes chopped and seasoned for roasting, Agretti (friars beard) snapped and ready for the pan with hot chili peppers and garlic. Anchovies washed and male zucchini blossoms stuffed with fresh mozzarella await dipping in batter before the hot oil. Fish filets are now deboned and dredged in flour seasoned with lemon zest salt and pepper will be browned in olive oil and topped with a sprinkling of capers and lemon slices. Everything is prepped and ready.
We stop and open a bottle of white wine, cin cin. We quickly fry the zucchini blossoms and sit down to enjoy the company of our hosts and the delicate flavor of the flowers. Taking our time with this dish before returning to the kitchen to drop the anchovies in the hot oil until they are crispy and golden brown pile don the plate and back to the table again to savor our time and their flavor.
Primi piatti time to taste our ravioli, it tastes even better than it looks. Delicate and deeply satisfying.
Another wine is opened and we start the secondo, a feast for the eyes I stop to take a photo and Shirley says “oh no” because the Italians would never have all these foods on the same plate. The contorni (vegetables) would in separate dishes the protein on a plate of it’s own to be appreciated on it’s individual merits. Throwing caution to the wind we sit down and enjoy it as a whole.
This whole day has been an experience of appreciating the individual ingredients as well as the marriages of flavors, textures, colors and smells. This idea is not lost on me as we blend traditions, experiences and lifestyles with one another. We are all individuals with our own merits enhanced by each person we meet. It has been an amazing day.
Finally we get to taste that beautiful cake with strawberries and whipped cream, decadence.

Mangere-to eat

Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:27:47 -0700

Once the focaccia was placed to rise inside the cold oven, which was still warmer than the room, and the cake baking in the other side, we began to prepare our “light lunch”. We slice five different Pecorino, a sheep’s milk cheese very popular here. Each cheese is a variant of aging, I slice and arrange on a platter, while John chops mostarda. With much finesse he minces the mustard and garlic glazed, super sticky pieces of kiwi, cherry, mango without getting any on himself. A scoop of apricot jam follows in a separate little bowl beside the mostarda. The artisanal cold cuts are arrange opposite the cheese and the platter complete.
Until most recently bread was baked once a week in communal wood burning ovens. Shirley whose background is in chemistry explains why Tuscan bread often contains no salt, “because without it,the bread does not draw moisture and therefor will not mold”. As the week goes on the breads become drier since italians feel strongly “Un si butta via niente”- we throw nothing away, along comes bruschetta. Bruschetta traditionally is stale bread toasted then rubbed with the sliced off end of garlic followed by a liberal dose of olive oil. But the possibilities are endless for toppings, I mix tubed double tomato paste with the beautiful green olive oil, pepper and basil, so simple but divine. Cannellini beans and olive oil, chicken livers, sundried tomato and melted pecorino cheese, and of course chopped tomatoes are just a few of the bruschetta we have tried.
We begin to set the table for our pranzo, a platter of cheeses and meats, a plate of bruschetta and a bowl of raw fava beans. The fava pods are eight to ten inches long , bright green and piled in a bowl, John and I both raise an eyebrow, what do we do with these. The prosecco is poured and we sit down to taste this lovely combination of Tuscan antipasto. Cin cin and onto those fava beans, customarily eaten with the new oil and sea salt and paired with the youngest pecorino. We pop open the long pods, push the fresh favas on to our plate and dip in the salted spicy green olive oil, then a bite of the very mild pecorino and there is a flavorful dance happening inside our mouths. As a treat Shirley brings out three olive oils, two theirs and one from Frances Mayes trees, for us to try and taste the subtle nuances of each.
It is so nice to sit and chat with Shirley, to get to know her a little better. To hear about life here the things she loves about it the things she misses. The day has been wonderful so far and if it ended here I would be happy, well maybe after I have a taste of that lemon cake.
The day has only just begun in our cooking experience in Cortona.
to be continued...

Cuocere - to cook

Fri, 23 Jul 2010 05:20:53 -0700

Our first special activity in Italy, a private cooking class in an Italian country home. San Egidio a hamlet in the mountains above the hilltown of Cortona. We met our hosts Chuck and Shirley Ofria in front of La Saletta at 9:00 a.m. for coffee and a sweet treat and to discuss our menu. Shirley hands me a cookbook which is filled with a handful of recipes for each course for a proper tuscan meal. We choose stuffed Zucchini blossoms, the Ravioli de Spinaci, Maile con Pancetta Affumicato e Vin Santo (Pork Chops), Fagiolli alla Toscana (tuscan white beans), and Verdura Saltate (sauteed greens),and for desert Torte di Olio di Oliva e Lemoni (Olive Oil and Lemon Cake).
With a plan of action we took off to gather ingredients from various vendors. Right off the bat we begin to change the menu choosing what looks best at the farmers table of vegetables and fruit set up under the arch leading into Pane e Vino. The chard looks amazing will use that in our ravioli, I spot tiny artichokes and express an interest Shirley buys a bag full. John really wants to have the little fried sardines like we remember from years ago in La Spezia. Shirley says they are actually anchovies and asks the fishmonger for a couple handfuls, then we decide on pieces of fish and throw the idea of the pork chops out the window.
Shirley and Chuck have lived here for four full years and visited for many years before. She knows all the shopkeepers by name, and who has the best of what she is looking for. We visit another fruit and vegetable shop, Fruittissima di Nandesi Alessandro, for fava beans, potatoes, fennel and salad greens, where we add on some strawberries for our cake. Then its on to the butchers, Macelleria Cipollini, where they make their own cold cuts, prosciutto, mortadella, finocchiona and true tuscan salami. A trip to the pane shop for a loaf of Tuscan bread is teeming with teens on their first break in the school day all buying their second breakfast. Finally the grocery store for cheeses various stages of pecorino and mozzarella for our zucchini blossoms.
We pile our bags of groceries into their trunk and hop in to drive to their home above Cortona, above Torreone, nearly above the clouds it seems. Winding twisting turning we catch glimpses of Lago Trasimeno and the cypress dotted valley below. Their home sits back in the woods with an amazing view and just downhill form Frances Mayes newest renovation. I have just finished reading her latest book which is another memoir of time spent here in Tuscany and the new place in the mountains.
We are welcomed by their kitty, who a bit skittish finally warmed to us. Entering along the backside up the steps lined with _____________ to the terrace complete with an outdoor pizza oven flanked with huge pots of herbs. Entering kitchen’s french doors from the terrace we unload our ingredients in their beautiful kitchen. Marble counter tops, simple rustic cabinetry a butch block topped island, a shiny stainless steel large double oven and gas range and a window out toward the pizza oven, this is the quintessential tuscan kitchen.
Chuck leaves to do renovation work on their retreat Il Refugio a seventeenth century stone villa in the nearby village of Montanare. The rent the refuge out to small groups or large families as a retreat and offer cooking and art classes among other things.
The rest of the morning we spend baking focaccia and olive oil lemon cake. The lemon cake recipe, she was given by an italian friend, calls for a half glass of olive oil a whole glass of milk, not exactly exact measurements, Shirley says this is indicative of many tuscan recipes. Tuscan food is simple country cooking. The olive oil is such a glorious shade of green the batter is a pale chartreuse.
to be continued...

Berkley Farmers Market

Thu, 5 Nov 2009 13:29:31 -0800

My how time flies when you’re having fun!
Since my last entry I’ve been to Las Vegas, Sedona, San Antonio and now at the beach on Mustang Island.

The Berkley Farmers Market still stands out in my mind as “a trip”. The moment we stepped into the market area, activists we looking for people to sign their petition to legalize marijuana. Definitely a unique market and full of out of the ordinary offerings, like sea cucumbers and prepared food so ethnically diverse I had never even heard of some. One city street is blocked off for this market, Center Street @Martin Luther King Way, a block seemingly full of a representative from every walk of life.

Once again this market was the day after the St. Helena Market so we still did not need anything, but managed to find some treasures. Number one being the absolute best Apple Cider, I have ever tasted! Bernie’s Best Organic Gravenstein Apple Cider. From The Phoenix Pastificio, we got fresh pasta and to die for a rustic olive bread baguette. Shoppers were making a beeline for that particular loaf, so I followed their lead, and was so happy I did. As always I was drawn to the olive oil booth, Big Paw a COOC certified extra virgin olive oil that John and I both found quite tasty for dipping our olive bread in. Lamb chops from Highland Hills Farm, were cooked to perfection on the Big Green egg that evening. Haricot verts made it in to my basket as well, as yogurt, peppers persimmons and apples.

The story John keeps telling about the Berkley Market was that there was a guy there with one table full of nothing but dates. Flying Disc Ranch had many different varieties and were generous with their samples, we choose Toostie and my favorite Bahri. The most decadent treat from a grass, I know of! Dates are a cross between a grain and a fruit.

I am sure that there is much I have forgotten to share, it’s been too long.

St.Helena

Tue, 20 Oct 2009 10:18:19 -0700

St Helena Market

Located between rows of grapes dripping from the vines and a community park, one long row of market umbrella shade artisans and farmers in St. Helena each Friday morning. The park is buzzing with activity, ladies taking tennis lessons, a bocci ball tournament, and children playing in the park. Folks enjoying a cup a joe and handmade pastries under the shade of giant eucalyptus trees, while others shop.

Swearing we won’t buy more than we need, which is minimal, I stroll through the stalls searching out the unusual. Finding so many less perishable farm products such as eggs (you know how I feel about farm eggs, these from Triple T Ranch) and dairy along with artisanal products can make a trip to a farmers market still fun when the need for fruits in veggies is low.

I bought handmade fresh pastas from Mirella, I served the Ravioli di Ricotta e Spinaci with pancetta and the tomato sauce I canned in Sequim.

With the grapes, bought at the previous market, we had cheese night. Raymond of Raymond&Co. Cheesemongers gave me a sample of Goat’s Leap Eclipse a scrumptious goat cheese with a hint of anise in the thin stripe of ash running through it. I also bought Baranga Ranch Basseri which I cannot for the life of me remember which type of milk it is made. On our next snack night, I plan to serve GLOP, a yummy new spread of parmesan and asiago cheeses, olive oil and spice with tomato bruschetta.
It’s no wonder we exercise everyday!

One of the best meals ever, IMO, featured a shiitake mushroom, tiny tomato and corn saute. Far West Funghi sells organically culitvated mushrooms in Moss Landing, CA. The beautiful specimens covering their table inspired the dish, which I served with grilled red snapper from Santa Rosa Seafood. Their seafood offerings are so fresh I have trouble not getting one of everything! The dish was topped off with a lightly dressed arugula salad. All fresh from the Farmers Market, it doesn’t get any better!

As usual Sadie made a big impression on fellow market shoppers. While chatting with another dog lover, we were approach by photographer Carol Troy, she was offering to take our portrait. What a fun addition to market day, she had a screen with a swath of fabric and a chair set up, to take portraits of vendors and patrons alike. I cannot wait to see the photos she took of Sadie and me.

The St. Helena Farmers Market still remains one of my favorites!

Napa Farmers Market

Wed, 7 Oct 2009 10:25:04 -0700

I left the Napa Farmers Market just plain excited. I met so many wonderful people and took some wonderful fall market shots. To be frank I had gotten a little burned out with blogging. I wonder wether writing about these markets is interesting to anyone but me. I question if my recipes are anything others would like to make. Reviewing markets is my least favorite entry to write. Don’t get me wrong visiting various markets across the country is a hoot. My shopping habits haven’t changed I still buy way more than we need. I love the colors and textures of the displays and being outside to buy my food. What I mean to say is I like the story behind the food, most of all.

What got me excited at the Napa Market? The people were so happy to share their story. They believed in what they were doing, farming and producing gave them great joy and tremendous pride.

Take for example Alexandra Fochi, she and husband, sold what the could, loaded up a car and left New York for a quieter pace. Alexandra says she saw the look on peoples faces whenever she served her native Brazilian food. Things she didn’t think were more than staples, made a big impression. She now makes and sells Brigadeiro, chocolates caramels that are the center piece of chlidren birthday parties in Brazil, even more important than the birthday cake. These chocolate caramels are decadent and addictive. Then there’s the cheese breads, a delectable little ball of bread that tastes of pure cheese. I suspect these would be divine with a glass of wine. Alexandra is so happy doing what she is doing, and her zest for life is contagious.

Scott Boggs of Hudson Ranch, farms produce, poultry and pork. I got the loveliest heirloom tomatoes from him, and when I told him about my Gypsy Gourmet project he was so kind in offering for me to call with any questions.

The Clucky Plucky Poultry lady had the kind of personality that makes you want to talk and talk. I look forward to making a beer butt bird with organic chicken we purchased from her. I was disappointed she didn’t have any eggs this week because she has quite a following, she provides poultry to The Restaurant at Meadowood, Bardessono Restaurant in Yountville, and Trinchero winery.

I had the most delightful conversation with Cathy Hammond, 5th generation olive grower of Atlas Peak Olive Oil. The farm has been in the Hammond family since 1882, that’s some kind of history. Normally her son would be at the market selling the olive oil, but I didn’t get to meet him. The olive oil they were sampling was from a spanish varietal, arbequina. Small, brown olives mostly grown in Catalonia. True to most oils pressed from the arbequina I would describe it as buttery and peppery. It would be a spectacular dipping oil with artisan breads and “the soup”. Oh, I haven’t shared that recipe yet?
It is a staple in the fall.

A few other booths I would like to mention:

The Hummus Guy, pretty self explanatory but anything but ordinary.

Sun Born Produce had the most beautiful jewel toned cherry tomatoes and Jimmy Nardello peppers I planted in my own garden but never got to taste.

J&J Ramos Farms are energetic barkers of their wonderful produce and offering samples, making it exciting to buy.

Rodriquez Farms had strawberries in October!

Devoto Gardens for dreamy flowers.

Poulsbo Farmers Market

Mon, 28 Sep 2009 10:35:24 -0700

Poulsbo Farmers Market recently named an America’s Favorite Top 20 Farmers Market by American Farmland Trust. The first ever America’s Favorite Farmers Markets™ contest to raise national awareness about the importance of supporting fresh food from local farms and farmers. As a side note my local market, Market Square FM in Knoxville, TN also made the top 20 list. Way to go guys! I like to think my blog might have spread the word about the contest a bit.

I knew since we were so close to this market we had too make an effort to go see it. This past Saturday, September 12th was the day. To my very pleasant surprise they were hosting their 6th annual tomato taste off. Judged by an expert panel, including Peg Tillery a Washington State University Horticulturist, Brad Watts of Valley Nursery in Poulsbo is also a Professional Horticulturist, John Nesby chef and owner of mor*MOR Bistro and Bar specializing in local, seasonal Northwest cuisine and a very congenial gentleman who claimed to be a happy eater.

The tomatoes were broken down into four categories, cherry or pear tomatoes, paste tomatoes and cooking and canning tomatoes, and the salad/slicers. The winners were chosen based on various criteria such as flavor, appearance, and texture.

famed Collinwood Farms took first in the cherry/pear tomato with Sungold variety.

The paste tomato winner came from HandSownHomegrownHeirloomCSA.pdf with Snow White a heirloom variety.

The cooking/canning winner Gail Larson won with a very attractive striped roma tomato,

In the Salad/Slicer group the top tomato brought to the taste off by Paul Gregory was a Goliath.

Best of Show: Paul Gregory’s Goliath due to the judges final impressions including nice balance between sugar and acid.

As for my shopping the Poulsbo Farmers Market, I left with a basket full of wonderfulness including: Poulsbo style Smoked Salmon from Northwest Gourmet, farm eggs from Pheasant Fields Farm, beautiful baby spinach from the folks at Farmhouse Organics, some amazing hummus and chimichurri made by Sound Bites Sauce & Spread Co., some beautiful tomatoes from Hand Sown, a great block of gouda created by Mt. Townsend Creamery, and garlic & onions from Collinswood Farms.

P.S. duh, completely forgot to push publish!
sorry for the late posting.

P.S.S. we have been on the road this past week and I am without internet.